By Jessica Scott-Reid
Jessica is a Canadian writer, animal advocate and plant-based food expert. Her work appears regularly in media across Canada and the US.
Ice cream. The iconic guilty pleasure. The warm-weather treat that refreshes and conjures up nostalgia for those care-free years of youth. But according to statistics from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), and as declared by CNN--How America fell out of love with ice cream--interest in the traditional dairy-based dessert has been in steady decline since the 1990’s.
And a similar downturn is now being observed in Canada. Today’s North American ice cream consumers appear to be in the market for something different, something cool and rich, but lower in fat and less harmful to the planet.
According to the USDA, in 1986 the average American ate 18 pounds of traditional dairy ice cream. By 2021, that consumption had dropped to just 12 pounds. Statistics Canada indicates that around 1983, the average Canadian consumed approximately 12 litres of ice cream per year, whereas today that amount has dropped to around 4.5 litres. “Ice cream, widely regarded as a beloved treat for the masses, is experiencing a steady decline in demand within the Canadian market," writes senior director of the Agri-food Analytics Lab at Dalhousie University, Sylvain Charlebois. He adds, "The advent of healthier treat alternatives has further diminished ice cream’s allure."
In both countries, the reason for the shift is being linked to changing dietary preferences, including concerns about the high fat—particularly saturated fat—content of dairy-based ice cream, and a growing awareness of dairy allergies and other intolerances. In Canada, dairy was removed as an essential food group from its Food Guide in 2019.
Health Canada now advises Canadians to limit their intake of saturated fats to decrease risk of chronic disease. A diet high in saturated fat increases risk of heart disease, diabetes and some types of cancers, which are among the leading causes of death in Canada.
CNN further reports that mounting public concern over the environmental impacts of dairy production is also a factor in the declining demand for traditional dairy-based ice cream. According to a meta-analysis by Our World In Data, “of food system impact studies across the supply chain which includes land use change, on-farm production, processing, transport, and packaging,” dairy milk, a base of dairy ice cream along with cream, has significantly higher impacts than plant-based dairy alternatives “across all metrics.”
The data shows that dairy milk production “causes around three times as much greenhouse gas emissions; uses around ten times as much land; two to twenty times as much freshwater; and creates much higher levels of eutrophication.”
Thus, as The New York Times recently declared, It’s Never Been a Better Time for Vegan Ice Cream, “as improvements in plant-based milks—especially oat milk, which is creamier and has a natural sweetness—have cleared the way for better-tasting dairy-free ice cream.” Today, ice creams made of nuts, soy, coconut, oats and more, come with far less eco-impact, less to no saturated fat, in hard or soft serve, and in all the flavours that consumers love.
The industry is growing, the article says, with sales of $437 million in the US last year. Globally, the vegan ice cream market reached US$639.5 million in 2022, and is expected to reach US$1.24 billion by 2030. It adds, “While these vegan treats are relatively new, they can call up the same kind of memories as traditional ice creams.”
Try this easy recipe for refreshing dairy-free watermelon "nice-cream," at home:
After pre-freezing your watermelon in pieces, preparation is quick and easy. Credit: Jessica Scott-Reid
Recipe:
2 cups frozen watermelon chunks
1 small can (160 ml) coconut cream
Juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp. maple syrup
¼ tsp. real vanilla extract
optional plant-based milk to aid blending
Blend smooth in blender or Bullet. Serve immediately. Makes 2-3 servings.
Use plant-milk to aid in blending if needed, before enjoying this rich and cool treat. Credit: Jessica Scott-Reid
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